After spending two weeks in the warm climes of Australia, New Zealand and Singapore, I got a bit of a shock when walking through jetway I was blasted with what seened like an icy cold wind. The gig was up. Fortunately, I had packed my hat, gloves, scarf and boots -- but this was in preparation for the winter in Lesotho in Southern Africa, not for China. I actually new it might be cold in March but I had dismissed or, more accurately, repressed any notion of cold weather after my summer in Australia and NZ. Wrong.
In fact, the first experience in Chinas was there was no way to escape this freezing corridor as the door to the terminal was sealed shut -- at 3 in the afternoon. I had decided for sure that the Chinese health authorities had quarantined our plane because they caught on to my minuscule cough. As you can imagine, the jetway quickly filled with more than 200 people -- who, I might add, included mostly impatient Chinese and a few Westerners who were too fearful to speak up. As the minutes ticked by, the atmosphere became more and more agitated and the bones became considerably colder.
Finally, it emerged that this was an innocent mistake -- a horrified clerk came running up and opened the door apologizing profusely in Chinese to a very impolite and unappreciative crowd. But, alas, I was in Beijing -- a very cold, grey, stark place that felt like the communist capital I had read about in the media.
I only had two days and decided that I would first see the legendary Tiananmen Square, the Hall of the People and the Forbidden City all of which are located together within one extended complex. As it happens, I was there during the annual communist party meeting so it was FULL of security, road blocks etc. This certainly helped paint an image of Tiananmen Square as it might have been in 1989 during the student protests. But there were no protests to be seen though we know they're happening in the hinterlands and on the internet -- as the battle between Google and China has illuminated.
I made it back to my hotel that evening though with a few challenges as I had gotten myself turned around a bit. Between a few nods and gestures from a guard when I showed him my map and a persistent offer for a rickshaw ride from a guy trying to make a yuan, I made it back to the hotel which was actually very nearby.
So for the first 24 hours everything was dreary and gray. But as in many hotels in China this one, too, was attached to a mall. And here, the communist party meetings were very far away indeed. Although I was searching for a place to eat, I was enmeshed in 10 floors of name brand sub-stores all within one big department store. While I have seen similar set-ups in Macy's with Gucci, Izod or whatever, China takes this to a new art form. Virtually, every department store is a brand sales experience of mammoth proportions. I did see one small corner tucked away on an upper floor with regular ladies bras etc but that was it within this 10 story shopping behemoth. In China, it's all about the brand. So there is at least one way to escape the drab existence of Beijing.
And then, there's also nature. As it turned out, the gray, dreary day turned overnight into a small snow storm that blanketed the entire city and surrounding countryside with about 5 inches of fluffy, glistening snow. As you all know, snow usually does the trick (as long as it doesn't turn to slush) and everything felt considerable more bright, vibrant and alive.
So what did my second day have in hold for me on this sun and snow drenched morning? Well, I was scheduled to see the Great Wall. Into the knapsack went the scarf, gloves and hat. And, onto my feet of course, went the hiking boots. After about a 2 hour journey, we came upon the Great Wall (and it is every bit as great as the photos you see) and after about a 15 minute lecture, the guide said "go hike, I'll meet you here." And so I did. It was actually a lot of fun -- pulling myself along the ice and snow covered steps among thousands of other travelers, few of whom were from the West. It seemed that most of the tourists were Chinese and other south and south east Asianers. In any event, it was an exhilarating experience (cleared out my lungs for sure) and I was fortunate that at the end, I was able to buy a real Chinese made t-shirt with a picture of the wall draped in snow that says I climbed the Great Wall. I also got a certification that I climbed the wall which, by the way, was paid for in advance of climbing. They're prepared to capture your tourist dollars at every turn.
Speaking of which, one other little amusing parts of Beijing was the tour to the medicine doctor who was kind enough to offer a natural alternative to flow max (based on a diagnosis he made by taking my pulse), and an opportunity to buy jade and cloisonne at factories the size of 10 football fields. But the highlight I say in jest was a one-on-one class on the tea ceremony with a stunningly beautiful Chinese woman who used all over her power to sell me tea. It actually worked a little (I write this chuckling to myself.) I wound up buying two small containers of teas that I liked during the tasting. Plus they threw in the ultimate bonus as a special gift -- a "pee man." Yes, you read this correctly. They have a "pee man" that is part of their gig. This is a ceramic little dude who pees up in the air when you pour very hot water on him. Don't ask if there is any significance to this. There's not. It's simply part of the new Chinese capitalism. They'll sell anything that moves -- in this case a Japanese invention -- the "pee man."
Any of you who come over for tea when I'm back in San Francisco, will get a chance to see him in action :)
On that note, it's time to say good-bye to Beijing and hello to the Arabian Gulf in my next postings
Tuesday, March 30, 2010
Saturday, March 27, 2010
Shanghai..
So, we all think about Shainghai as an international city both historically and certainly ever more so in the future.
But whatever the future holds, I was immediately confronted with the fact that my taxi driver didn't under a word of English nor the Chinese version of the hotel name that someone in Beijing had written out for me. Yes, I had my reservation sheet from the hotel but that didn't do much good in English. And the Chinese version wasn't working, so what to do next? Frantic, but thinking quickly, I remembered the phrase list at the back of the Time Out Shanghai guide that was resting in my backpack. I flipped quickly through the book and, much to my relief, found the name of the hotel written in Chinese. I passed the book to the front of the taxi and all was good. But this only one of several times the phrase book came in handy. So I have to thank Abby and Ed for providing their Time Out Shanghai book before I left SF.
There were so many notable things about Shanghai I hardly know where to begin and I don't want to bore you to tears with a very long entry. So here's some highlights:
--the 1/2 day walking tour around Shanghai with a fellow named Peter Hibbard, a historian affiliated with the Royal Asiatic Society who, I should note, has recently been recognized in some significant way by the Queen. (I don't want to misrepresent it so I'll leave it at that) Turns out that this man knows virtually every detail of the architectural history of Shanghai as well as every alley, vestibule and every nook and cranny of where to see both Shanghai's diverse architectural richness as well as places to point out the more subtle changes that are sweeping the lives of the people in Shanghai. I recommend him highly for anyone traveling to Shanghai but suggest you find a group to join as it will make his rather fancy price more affordable.
--the Jewish tour of Shanghai run by a very nice Israeli guy, Dvir Bar-Gal, who is passionate about bringing to light the history of the 20,000 Holocaust refugees who escaped to Shanghai during the war. (He did point out that there was a Chinese Diplomat in Vienna, Dr. Ho Feng Shan, who issued many visas but whose assistance to the Jews went unrecognized for decades. More recently Dr. Ho has been recognized at Yad Vashem so I will look for information on him when I get to Israel in a few weeks)
I should note that while there was no extermination in Shanghai, the conditions under the Japanese were deplorable; a significant number of refugees died from disease and some were imprisoned in wretched conditions at various times. And as the Japanese increasingly controlled Shanghai, they forced the Jews out of several neighborhoods and into a ghetto called Hongkou. So while it was a refuge, and many Jews made the best of it through cunning resourcefulness, it was a fairly horrible existence unto itself. And I should add, something I didn't learn about in Sunday school.
For those interested in this topic, you can check out the website www.shanghai-jews.com and you can google also for additional materials on the subject. But you should also know that while Dvir's tour focuses on the 20,0000 Jews who found refuge in Shanghai during the war, there is a rich Jewish history reaching back hundreds of years. So you might also "google" a bit about the Iraqi and Russian Jews who established communities in China long before the war. The Iraqi Jews in particular (the Sassoons, the Khadoories, the Hardoons) have a fasciinating history as traders and economic powerhouses who were also philanthropists and deeply engaged in the Shanghai community of their day.
-- the two cooking classes I took were the social highlight of Shanghai. I met a lot of interesting people from across the globe and had a very nice time both learning some Chinese cooking techniques and visiting a local food market. And as luck would have it, I met a very nice Swiss gay guy in the class (with a Chinese boyfriend) who showed me a bit of the arts scene in Shanghai and took me to a very nice tapas restaurant for dinner.
-- I had some really delicious peking duck and a hefty order of steamed dumplings in Shanghai (yes, I had it in Beijing too) for a mere $12. When I was finished stuffing myself, they brought a bowl of soup that was large enough to feed a table of 6. Unfortunately, I couldn't eat another thing and had to explain to my non-English speaking wait people that I was leaving it untouched. Next time.
-- and last, but not least, I attended a lecture of the Literary Guild, that was, coincidentally being held while I was in town. The person I went to hears speak is a woman named Tess Johnston, a retired Foreign Service Officer, who just published a short book about the overseas assignments that influenced her most in her years living abroad: Berlin, Vietnam and Shanghai. It was a nice event and the reading included some delightful personal touches about life in the foreign service. It made me wonder whether I still have a career overseas left in me -- perhaps stamping visas somewhere for a few years.
Shanghai is a city that is both rich in history and poised for change. It has a wide variety of architecture (new and old), culture, digital buzz, youth, migrant labor, pollution, a yen for the future and more. I would gladly spend another week there taking in more of their symphony, jazz, art and museum scene and revisiting some of the historical sites that captured my interest. It's a city that is much like London or Paris in Europe. You can probably visit any number of times and still find ways to enjoy the vibrancy of this fascinating place. Maybe I'll go back in December for an encore.
But whatever the future holds, I was immediately confronted with the fact that my taxi driver didn't under a word of English nor the Chinese version of the hotel name that someone in Beijing had written out for me. Yes, I had my reservation sheet from the hotel but that didn't do much good in English. And the Chinese version wasn't working, so what to do next? Frantic, but thinking quickly, I remembered the phrase list at the back of the Time Out Shanghai guide that was resting in my backpack. I flipped quickly through the book and, much to my relief, found the name of the hotel written in Chinese. I passed the book to the front of the taxi and all was good. But this only one of several times the phrase book came in handy. So I have to thank Abby and Ed for providing their Time Out Shanghai book before I left SF.
There were so many notable things about Shanghai I hardly know where to begin and I don't want to bore you to tears with a very long entry. So here's some highlights:
--the 1/2 day walking tour around Shanghai with a fellow named Peter Hibbard, a historian affiliated with the Royal Asiatic Society who, I should note, has recently been recognized in some significant way by the Queen. (I don't want to misrepresent it so I'll leave it at that) Turns out that this man knows virtually every detail of the architectural history of Shanghai as well as every alley, vestibule and every nook and cranny of where to see both Shanghai's diverse architectural richness as well as places to point out the more subtle changes that are sweeping the lives of the people in Shanghai. I recommend him highly for anyone traveling to Shanghai but suggest you find a group to join as it will make his rather fancy price more affordable.
--the Jewish tour of Shanghai run by a very nice Israeli guy, Dvir Bar-Gal, who is passionate about bringing to light the history of the 20,000 Holocaust refugees who escaped to Shanghai during the war. (He did point out that there was a Chinese Diplomat in Vienna, Dr. Ho Feng Shan, who issued many visas but whose assistance to the Jews went unrecognized for decades. More recently Dr. Ho has been recognized at Yad Vashem so I will look for information on him when I get to Israel in a few weeks)
I should note that while there was no extermination in Shanghai, the conditions under the Japanese were deplorable; a significant number of refugees died from disease and some were imprisoned in wretched conditions at various times. And as the Japanese increasingly controlled Shanghai, they forced the Jews out of several neighborhoods and into a ghetto called Hongkou. So while it was a refuge, and many Jews made the best of it through cunning resourcefulness, it was a fairly horrible existence unto itself. And I should add, something I didn't learn about in Sunday school.
For those interested in this topic, you can check out the website www.shanghai-jews.com and you can google also for additional materials on the subject. But you should also know that while Dvir's tour focuses on the 20,0000 Jews who found refuge in Shanghai during the war, there is a rich Jewish history reaching back hundreds of years. So you might also "google" a bit about the Iraqi and Russian Jews who established communities in China long before the war. The Iraqi Jews in particular (the Sassoons, the Khadoories, the Hardoons) have a fasciinating history as traders and economic powerhouses who were also philanthropists and deeply engaged in the Shanghai community of their day.
-- the two cooking classes I took were the social highlight of Shanghai. I met a lot of interesting people from across the globe and had a very nice time both learning some Chinese cooking techniques and visiting a local food market. And as luck would have it, I met a very nice Swiss gay guy in the class (with a Chinese boyfriend) who showed me a bit of the arts scene in Shanghai and took me to a very nice tapas restaurant for dinner.
-- I had some really delicious peking duck and a hefty order of steamed dumplings in Shanghai (yes, I had it in Beijing too) for a mere $12. When I was finished stuffing myself, they brought a bowl of soup that was large enough to feed a table of 6. Unfortunately, I couldn't eat another thing and had to explain to my non-English speaking wait people that I was leaving it untouched. Next time.
-- and last, but not least, I attended a lecture of the Literary Guild, that was, coincidentally being held while I was in town. The person I went to hears speak is a woman named Tess Johnston, a retired Foreign Service Officer, who just published a short book about the overseas assignments that influenced her most in her years living abroad: Berlin, Vietnam and Shanghai. It was a nice event and the reading included some delightful personal touches about life in the foreign service. It made me wonder whether I still have a career overseas left in me -- perhaps stamping visas somewhere for a few years.
Shanghai is a city that is both rich in history and poised for change. It has a wide variety of architecture (new and old), culture, digital buzz, youth, migrant labor, pollution, a yen for the future and more. I would gladly spend another week there taking in more of their symphony, jazz, art and museum scene and revisiting some of the historical sites that captured my interest. It's a city that is much like London or Paris in Europe. You can probably visit any number of times and still find ways to enjoy the vibrancy of this fascinating place. Maybe I'll go back in December for an encore.
Sunday, March 21, 2010
China - A unique nation where all looms large
At first I thought that my blog postings would continue in chronological order (Hong Kong, Beijing, Shanghai) but upon reflection I think I will write first about Hong Kong and Shanghai. And then finish with Beijing in a few days.
Why is that? As I may have commented in one of my earlier posts, this adventure has evolved into an exploration of the former British empire. While some of these countries remain part of the commonwealth today along with the pomp and circumstance –- others like China have brought former colonies fully into their control.
In any event, while the entire visit to China was enlightening and full of fun experiences, there is something about the historical transformation in both Hong Kong and Shanghai that call out for attention. Starting with Hong Kong, it is important to recall that 1997 was the formal turnover of Hong Kong to the Chinese. It is a little startling to think that while many other gems of the British empire were given up in the 50’s and 60’s, the British were able to hold onto Hong Kong for so long.
But today it is part of China’s” one party, two systems” experiment and also part of what I’d like to call its “two system , one tension system .” What do I mean by that? Well, we all know Hong Kong as being an economic power center of Asia. After all, Hong Kong sits on an island with hardly any resources or manufacturing and yet it is an economic titan. Because of its historic place in the British empire which means today there is a large English speaking, well educated and affluent population, Hong Kong has always maintained a key role in the region. Well my assignment is not to write a book about it, but what I did learn is that it appears that China is doing everything it can to create a rival capitalist center of China on the Mainland – and that is in Shanghai. And this leaves the future of Hong Kong unclear -- just as it was for the decades before the 1997 turnover.
As we know, the Chinese have been relatively careful to maintain the status quo on Hong Kong and to avoid creating an untenable political or economic environment that would alienate either the Chinese population or Hong Kong's economic machine. I was told by someone that, in fact, they rather enjoy having this free market possession within their control. It's something they can "play" with. But it is also clear that Shanghai is in their sights to become the new Hong Kong, the new capital of capitalism in China, and even, perhaps, THE global economic powerhouse of the 21st century in Asia. It has the potential to be the economic capital of the region – the leading trading hub for the region as well as the gateway to 1.3 billion people whose material needs and production capacity are growing by the second.
My impression is that while Hong Kong is a bustling hub stuffed cheek to jowl, where business is everything and the local population stays highly focused on getting their business done. At the same time, they are very concerned about the future; there is a new leader looming and it is casting a large shadow. And they know it
One personal example of the focus on business became apparent the first morning I was there. I had arrived late at night and so wasn’t too familiar with where I was. As I began to look for a bit to eat, I noticed a man in a yarmulke passing me on the street. It caught my attention. Then came #2, #3, #4. I noted this to myself (who couldn’t notice this in Hong Kong?) and went about my business for the day. I returned from my outing during rush hour and the busy streets turned into a whirl of people and activity. I thought it was New York on steroids. The thought of getting a cab for the 1 mile trip was a pipe dream so I started to walk map in hand. It wasn't too challenging I must admit as everything in Hong Kong is well marked in English --thanks to the Brits. Finally, I got to a place that was familiar and I knew I just had to continue straight for the remaining distance. Happy with myself, I stuck the map in my pocket and carried on. A few minutes later, I heard someone from behind say “excuse me, sir, but you dropped your map.”
When I turned around there was a hassid standing there in full regalia – the long robe, pais, tzits, black hat. Everything. He handed me the map and was on his way – right in the direction of my hotel – talking in English to a 40 something Chinese business man the entire time. Curious as can be, I approached the front desk clerk (a nice gay guy I had met several times already) and asked if there was anything special going on in town, mentioning explicitly that I saw a lot of men with little hats on their heads. Non-plussed, he immediately replied that it was the week of the Hong Kong jewelry show and that’s why they were there. Now I understood.
I also learned that there are some stunning parts to the island side of Hong Kong at Repulse Bay (don’t know the history of that one) which includes a spectacular coast line which runs some distance outside of downtown. As is inevitable, the coastal roads are replete with condo towers that hug the expansive mountains behind them while reaching miles into the sky overhead. Check out this site.
http://www.discoverhongkong.com/eng/attractions/hk-repulse-bay.html
The Repulse Bay area can be breathtaking, overwhelming and a bit shocking all at the same time. One prays that there will never be seismic action on Hong Kong after traveling that coast line. But otherwise, it is stunning.
Stay tuned for China II and more on my fun time in Shanghai...
Why is that? As I may have commented in one of my earlier posts, this adventure has evolved into an exploration of the former British empire. While some of these countries remain part of the commonwealth today along with the pomp and circumstance –- others like China have brought former colonies fully into their control.
In any event, while the entire visit to China was enlightening and full of fun experiences, there is something about the historical transformation in both Hong Kong and Shanghai that call out for attention. Starting with Hong Kong, it is important to recall that 1997 was the formal turnover of Hong Kong to the Chinese. It is a little startling to think that while many other gems of the British empire were given up in the 50’s and 60’s, the British were able to hold onto Hong Kong for so long.
But today it is part of China’s” one party, two systems” experiment and also part of what I’d like to call its “two system , one tension system .” What do I mean by that? Well, we all know Hong Kong as being an economic power center of Asia. After all, Hong Kong sits on an island with hardly any resources or manufacturing and yet it is an economic titan. Because of its historic place in the British empire which means today there is a large English speaking, well educated and affluent population, Hong Kong has always maintained a key role in the region. Well my assignment is not to write a book about it, but what I did learn is that it appears that China is doing everything it can to create a rival capitalist center of China on the Mainland – and that is in Shanghai. And this leaves the future of Hong Kong unclear -- just as it was for the decades before the 1997 turnover.
As we know, the Chinese have been relatively careful to maintain the status quo on Hong Kong and to avoid creating an untenable political or economic environment that would alienate either the Chinese population or Hong Kong's economic machine. I was told by someone that, in fact, they rather enjoy having this free market possession within their control. It's something they can "play" with. But it is also clear that Shanghai is in their sights to become the new Hong Kong, the new capital of capitalism in China, and even, perhaps, THE global economic powerhouse of the 21st century in Asia. It has the potential to be the economic capital of the region – the leading trading hub for the region as well as the gateway to 1.3 billion people whose material needs and production capacity are growing by the second.
My impression is that while Hong Kong is a bustling hub stuffed cheek to jowl, where business is everything and the local population stays highly focused on getting their business done. At the same time, they are very concerned about the future; there is a new leader looming and it is casting a large shadow. And they know it
One personal example of the focus on business became apparent the first morning I was there. I had arrived late at night and so wasn’t too familiar with where I was. As I began to look for a bit to eat, I noticed a man in a yarmulke passing me on the street. It caught my attention. Then came #2, #3, #4. I noted this to myself (who couldn’t notice this in Hong Kong?) and went about my business for the day. I returned from my outing during rush hour and the busy streets turned into a whirl of people and activity. I thought it was New York on steroids. The thought of getting a cab for the 1 mile trip was a pipe dream so I started to walk map in hand. It wasn't too challenging I must admit as everything in Hong Kong is well marked in English --thanks to the Brits. Finally, I got to a place that was familiar and I knew I just had to continue straight for the remaining distance. Happy with myself, I stuck the map in my pocket and carried on. A few minutes later, I heard someone from behind say “excuse me, sir, but you dropped your map.”
When I turned around there was a hassid standing there in full regalia – the long robe, pais, tzits, black hat. Everything. He handed me the map and was on his way – right in the direction of my hotel – talking in English to a 40 something Chinese business man the entire time. Curious as can be, I approached the front desk clerk (a nice gay guy I had met several times already) and asked if there was anything special going on in town, mentioning explicitly that I saw a lot of men with little hats on their heads. Non-plussed, he immediately replied that it was the week of the Hong Kong jewelry show and that’s why they were there. Now I understood.
I also learned that there are some stunning parts to the island side of Hong Kong at Repulse Bay (don’t know the history of that one) which includes a spectacular coast line which runs some distance outside of downtown. As is inevitable, the coastal roads are replete with condo towers that hug the expansive mountains behind them while reaching miles into the sky overhead. Check out this site.
http://www.discoverhongkong.com/eng/attractions/hk-repulse-bay.html
The Repulse Bay area can be breathtaking, overwhelming and a bit shocking all at the same time. One prays that there will never be seismic action on Hong Kong after traveling that coast line. But otherwise, it is stunning.
Stay tuned for China II and more on my fun time in Shanghai...
Saturday, March 6, 2010
Singapore: a social and political experiment
I have just landed in Hong Kong from Shanghai. Silly me, but I had forgotten that Google might not be fully accessible on the mainland. I had written this post right before leaving Singapore with the intention of editing it once I landed in Beijing. It didn't work out that way. It is now 9 days later and I'm able to access my blog again. One country -- two systems.
So therefore, I present you Singapore Continued.... (Stay tuned for China in the next few days.)
My first day in Singapore I wandered through the contemporary art museum and the national museum both of which adjoin Fort Canning, an important site for the British colonial army, especially at the time the Japanese invaded and occupied Singapore.
The contemporary art exhibit was fascinating as it featured dissident artists from Malaysia and Indonesia. This surprised me a bit as my naive impression is that everything in Singapore is sanitized. Well, I think that is mostly true. Except when they want to stick it a little bit to their neighbors.
One needs to look back historically and recall that Singapore and Malaysia were bound together as recently as 1965. And the conflict between the dominant Chinese population in Singapore and the poorer Muslim Malays continues to this day. Yet, I don't think you will find a dissident art exhibit by Singaporean artists. There are limits. They will acknowledge dissent among their rivals but you won't find much evidence of dissent internally.
This is a good moment to note that the stereotype of Singapore being a spotless city, where littering could bring the death penalty, is just not true. In fact, one can see various degrees of litter at different points in the city, most notably in the Malay section of town. This is especially true around the Malay cemetery which is part park and part burial ground. It is evident (at least to me) that the government is thumbing its nose at the Malays by leaving the public land around their neighborhood in a fairly seedy condition. It is certainly a contrast with the rest of the city where you see municipal workers sweeping up everywhere and the modern economy moving at a brisk pace. Not to leave a false impression here -- the Malay section of the city has its charm, including an ethnic heritage museum, a well preserved Mosque and a pedestrian area bustling with tourist shops. It was the bordering cemetery area, which is at a fairly prominent cross roads in the city, that I observed this rather perplexing scene. (I had actually remembered this same area being similarly littered when I was there a few years back but thought it was just an outlier of some sort.) But now I think it is to some degree a political and societal issue. I've tentatively concluded that the municipality intentionally leaves this park/burial ground in somewhat poor condition. When I asked the guide about it, she said the park always looked this way and then moved on to the next topic. Perhaps I will have a chance to learn more on my next visit to Singapore.
At the same time there is this vexing question of litter around this one area, you will find a tight knit and bustling Indian community doing its business and being economic leaders. And you will find a heightened recognition of the "Peranakan" community. This is essentially a recognition and respect demanded --and now given --to the various inter-married minorities which have evolved over the centuries whether they be Chinese, Malay, Indian, Europeans or others. And, of course, the Chinese are economic entrepeneurs almost like no others.
Well, I will leave it up to you to consider the question of how multi-ethnic and religiously diverse societies function in real life. I think Singapore makes a very decent, albeit imperfect, effort to to align and support its various ethnic and religous communities. You should have no doubt that this is a capitalist society to its very core. Just stop at any indoor shopping mall which you will find on virtually every block and you will see for yourself!
So therefore, I present you Singapore Continued.... (Stay tuned for China in the next few days.)
My first day in Singapore I wandered through the contemporary art museum and the national museum both of which adjoin Fort Canning, an important site for the British colonial army, especially at the time the Japanese invaded and occupied Singapore.
The contemporary art exhibit was fascinating as it featured dissident artists from Malaysia and Indonesia. This surprised me a bit as my naive impression is that everything in Singapore is sanitized. Well, I think that is mostly true. Except when they want to stick it a little bit to their neighbors.
One needs to look back historically and recall that Singapore and Malaysia were bound together as recently as 1965. And the conflict between the dominant Chinese population in Singapore and the poorer Muslim Malays continues to this day. Yet, I don't think you will find a dissident art exhibit by Singaporean artists. There are limits. They will acknowledge dissent among their rivals but you won't find much evidence of dissent internally.
This is a good moment to note that the stereotype of Singapore being a spotless city, where littering could bring the death penalty, is just not true. In fact, one can see various degrees of litter at different points in the city, most notably in the Malay section of town. This is especially true around the Malay cemetery which is part park and part burial ground. It is evident (at least to me) that the government is thumbing its nose at the Malays by leaving the public land around their neighborhood in a fairly seedy condition. It is certainly a contrast with the rest of the city where you see municipal workers sweeping up everywhere and the modern economy moving at a brisk pace. Not to leave a false impression here -- the Malay section of the city has its charm, including an ethnic heritage museum, a well preserved Mosque and a pedestrian area bustling with tourist shops. It was the bordering cemetery area, which is at a fairly prominent cross roads in the city, that I observed this rather perplexing scene. (I had actually remembered this same area being similarly littered when I was there a few years back but thought it was just an outlier of some sort.) But now I think it is to some degree a political and societal issue. I've tentatively concluded that the municipality intentionally leaves this park/burial ground in somewhat poor condition. When I asked the guide about it, she said the park always looked this way and then moved on to the next topic. Perhaps I will have a chance to learn more on my next visit to Singapore.
At the same time there is this vexing question of litter around this one area, you will find a tight knit and bustling Indian community doing its business and being economic leaders. And you will find a heightened recognition of the "Peranakan" community. This is essentially a recognition and respect demanded --and now given --to the various inter-married minorities which have evolved over the centuries whether they be Chinese, Malay, Indian, Europeans or others. And, of course, the Chinese are economic entrepeneurs almost like no others.
Well, I will leave it up to you to consider the question of how multi-ethnic and religiously diverse societies function in real life. I think Singapore makes a very decent, albeit imperfect, effort to to align and support its various ethnic and religous communities. You should have no doubt that this is a capitalist society to its very core. Just stop at any indoor shopping mall which you will find on virtually every block and you will see for yourself!
Singapore -- a city of contrasts and contradictions
I have come to admire Singapore in the course of two visits, this one being my second. Singapore has a rich and complex history that involves, of course, a significant European colonial period with all of its complexities and complications. In our visit to Port Arthur in Tasmania (which I neglected to mention in my last post) we were exposed to the insidious effects of "convict" labor as a means of colonial expansion. It was more of a bizarre social experiment where children and adults were sent thousands of miles for a variety of sometimes (perhaps most times) petty crimes like stealing a handkerchief. I'm sure there were real criminals among them but geez
Nonetheless, flash forward and I'm standing in the awesome Asian Civilization Museum in Singapore when our guide told us that the building had been originally built by Indian "convicts" brought to Singapore by the British. I then realized that my round the world trip is really a study in the implications of British colonialism since I will touch virtually all the commonwealth countries on my journey. Perhaps I need to add Nigeria to my itinerary.
More on the polyglot society of Singapore in my next posting.
Nonetheless, flash forward and I'm standing in the awesome Asian Civilization Museum in Singapore when our guide told us that the building had been originally built by Indian "convicts" brought to Singapore by the British. I then realized that my round the world trip is really a study in the implications of British colonialism since I will touch virtually all the commonwealth countries on my journey. Perhaps I need to add Nigeria to my itinerary.
More on the polyglot society of Singapore in my next posting.
Tassie II
We continued our exploration on Tassie for about 8 days. Had the honor of seeing a platypus in his (or her) natural habitat and, later on, penguins up the coast near Bicheno, a charming little beachfront town. Stayed in some wonderful (and inexpensive) beachfront accommodations as we meandered up the coast.
Stunning sights at Wineglass Bay are as dramatic and inspiring as all the guidebooks promise and definitely worth the stop. We hiked for about an hour to get to the must stunning lookout and were very proud of all the calories we burned to get there. My traveling companion, Shaul, claims we only burned 2 calories. I hope it was at least 100.
Our final evening on Tassie was in Launceston which exceeded all expectations for interesting architecture and charm. According to a local we ran into at an art gallery, Launceston has one of the largest number of preserved historical buildings in all of Australia. Will spend a bit more time there on the next trip as the surrounding towns also had some charming buildings and grounds that we rushed by since it was our last day.
I should also add that I mastered driving on the left just in time to fly off to Melbourne where we relied solely on public transit. But I feel confident for the driving in South Africa in a few months time.
Stunning sights at Wineglass Bay are as dramatic and inspiring as all the guidebooks promise and definitely worth the stop. We hiked for about an hour to get to the must stunning lookout and were very proud of all the calories we burned to get there. My traveling companion, Shaul, claims we only burned 2 calories. I hope it was at least 100.
Our final evening on Tassie was in Launceston which exceeded all expectations for interesting architecture and charm. According to a local we ran into at an art gallery, Launceston has one of the largest number of preserved historical buildings in all of Australia. Will spend a bit more time there on the next trip as the surrounding towns also had some charming buildings and grounds that we rushed by since it was our last day.
I should also add that I mastered driving on the left just in time to fly off to Melbourne where we relied solely on public transit. But I feel confident for the driving in South Africa in a few months time.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)